Bears, Bears, Bears !!!

We have a scenic and calm flight, with just a couple of hair raising bumps. These small planes are the mainstay of Alaskan transportation. There are no roads and cars where we're going. Only boats, planes and ATV's survive here. Lake Clark NP sits on the west side of the Cook Inlet across from the Kenai Pennisula. It's a popular destination to fish for silver salmon aka coho salmon and for bear viewing. Our intrepid group can't wait to get there and start shooting the bears.

Lake Clark is not how I imagined it, instead of deep blue waters we approach a lake of green. Covered with lily pads our pilot skillfully brings us down for a smooth as silk landing. But our adventure is not over. There is no dock to disembark on, so we wait for the boat to make its way over. After a short ride we reach land and begin our overland hike through the wilds of Alaska. Wildflowers abound, berry bushes are ripening and a fresh pile of scat is our first glimpse of the bears we've yet to see.

The lodge is small and cozy. Plush couches with large picture windows fill the main area. There's a wood stove for heat and lots of books on Alaska. I actually have a small cabin of my own, the Halibut Hut, which overlooks the vast expanse of sedge grasses that spread from the treeline to the sea. After sorting the luggage we all rush to the dining room for lunch. All this travel is hungry work! The food is fabulous. Our happy cooks fill our bellies three times a day. Everyday there's a different baked bread, vegetables and salad from their modest garden, fish so fresh it flops on your plate and every evening finishes with a delicate, delicious dessert. And did I mention all the cookies? You won't believe it but I ate like a horse, no bird nibbling for me.

After a filling lunch we head out to find some bears! Our transportation and thank goodness for it, are two ATV's with trailers. They haul our desk job butts around and my 20 pounds of camera, lens and tripod. Carolyn and I have the heaviest loads being the smallest individuals there. Who says bigger isn't better? The only drawback is the bone jarring ride over mud rutted tracks, but it's all worth it.

We're hunting for the not so elusive Coastal Brown Bear or Kodiak bear if we were on Kodiak Island. He is a brown bear like the grizzly but has his own subspecies classification. These bears are larger than their inland grizzly cousins but I find more tolerant of us. You hear of grizzly attacks and deaths every year, more so in the past than today, but it is a fearsome bear. These bears are very scary don't get me wrong, but they don't care much about us. There is plenty of food and we no longer hunt them with deadly force. All the bears here have grown up and lived with a human presence, one that does not interfere with them. So they are aware of us, but pretty much don't care. Unless you happen to have a tasty fish.

Our guides estimate there are 60-70 bears in the area. There are other large mammals such as moose here, but they tend to stay back in the trees. The bears weigh 900-1200 pounds and can sprint up to 40 mph. They are omnivorous and are currently switching from grass to fish. The fish run has been late this year they tell us. It's been a wet cool summer, except for the week we're here it's sunny and 70.

We find our first bears sedging or eating the sedge grasses. The overcast day is perfect for the green grasses and dark bears. A massive boar munches while we frantically set up cameras and start shooting for our lives. Phew, now that that's over we can concentrate on making some good images. I've never seen a live grizzly up close and personal, much less got any photos!

We shoot plenty of sedging behaivor the first couple days, waiting for the fishing to begin. A cool treat one morning finds us on the beach with a momma and her cub clamming. The best part was following them back into the grasses. It was very still and the skeeters were annoying but wow so close to such coolness. The cub laid down for a rest and momma ate some grass. While this is not particularly exciting, waiting and watching is the key. Our guide has spent 8 years out here and knows the bears. After 30 minutes of naptime, junior woke up and went over to a resting momma. Gently settling his head on her back he began his plaintive song, crying in clear bearish "Feed me Momma!" Sure enough, mom flipped over so fast I was startled and began nursing her cub. Now how cool is that? Plus the cub was purring up a storm! Yes bears purr, deep rumbly purrs. Certainly a moment I will never forget. Plus I got a few shots, grin... Hear a purring cub!

So everyone asks "How close did you get?" Followed closely by "I hope you didn't get too close!" Well our group was often fairly close. We go set up to shoot and many times the bears will come close by. Walking along, that beady eye is always aware of where you are. One time I was chatting with Marble and Larry in the yard of our lodge when a bear walked within a few yards of us. While this still gets my pulse up I'm not too concerned, he just didn't care about us.

The best part by far was the fishing, bears fishing that is. We really got to see what these bears are made of. Activity picks up in the evenings after high tide. The tide helps the fish push up the creek. They run June-September but the action really picks up in August. At first we see a lot of bears walking along the creek, laying by the creek, running up the creek, splashing and cavorting in the distance, but nothing close by.

Then one golden evening we head to the mouth of the creek on the beach. Our main players are a young female bear and our momma with nursing cub. The young bear is standing stock still in the water, looking and listening. The fish are here, she just has to spot one. Momma comes up near her and stands on hind feet to get a better view. Scanning around, her cub paws this and that forever curious and active. Then she spots one. The fish, eager to move upstream has stranded himself in shallow water. Flopping about to try to regain the water he attracts unwanted attention. In a flash momma moves out. A burst of speed and her ground covering stride brings her quickly to the stranded fish. She quickly swats it down with her giant paw and snaps it up in her yellowed teeth. Trotting up a few seconds later comes her cub. Seeing the meal he begins his plaintive/demanding cry. She puts the fish down and shares with junior. He's very young, it could well be his first fish, I like to think so.

Momma let's him have his fun and fill. She pauses to stand up and look around for more fish. She scans for a while while junior fights with the fish in his small jaws. She comes back down to grab a few more bites when junior gives her attitude. She swats him away and gobbles the rest of the fish. Always respect your momma!

She's again up on her feet looking for another meal. One measley fish will not fill up her massive belly. She quickly spots another one to the left of our group. This is my finest photo moment. I have charging bear at eye level angled towards me. Massive muscles effortlessly propel her across the creek. Water and mud spray everywhere. Leaving her cub in the wake she quickly dives down and picks up a fish. Standing up away from her eager beaver she devours the fish and starts looking again. Within seconds she's spotted another and comes straight at our group. Pouncing like a cat, she yet again emerges from the water with a fish. Wow, 3 fish in 10 minutes and several gigabytes of images! Sweet, everything else is gravy for me now.

Meanwhile our young bear continues her search. Downstream two other bears have prowled into the area looking for fish. Upstream another bear comes and goes. Way in the distance another momma and her 3 yearling cubs swarm the boat used for halibut fishing earlier that day. They caught a 142 pound halibut, a huge fish. I see at least 10 bears within sight of our group at one time. Normally quite solitary they will tolerate each other for fishing, but there are still scuffles and feints for position and food.

Our young girl finally makes her move. She plows through the water, ears forward, looking for all the world like a lab chasing a stick. She pounces on her prey, completely submerging herself. Coming up drenched the prize in her jaws. She tries to keep her back to the other bears in the area and eat her fish, but momma bear has noticed the action and charges at the girl. Not about to let her hard earned catch go, she flies off with momma in hot pursuit. Luckily, bears are sprinters and momma doesn't want to leave her cub too far behind. She lets up and our girl gets her meal.

This evening has been magical. The golden light highlights these magnificant creatures. They continue to come and go. Momma and her cub pause to rest and watch. Other bears sit and ponder the water. In the distance another bear charges for fish. As the light fades I know my memory will hold this incredible evening forever. We pile back in the trailers and head home.

Our final evening provides a host of fishing activity as we find ourselves at the creek mouth on the beach again. The day is overcast and there is nothing as spectacular as the day before but one incredibly cool moment was watching this bear chase down a fish. The entire time you can see the wake of the fishes dorsal fin as he frantically fins upstream, downstream, to and fro. He gave a valiant run but natures predator caught him in the end.

I could go on and on with cool bear moments but I think you get the picture. My images don't do them justice. I hope you have the chance to get out there to experience some of natures wonders yourself. There is nothing like it.

I would like to thank Carolyn for leading a fine workshop and all the new friends I made there. Sharing the experience makes it all the more special. Also thanks to Silver Salmon Creek Lodge and her staff. You gave us a memorable experience with fine food, excellent service and hospitality.

Thanks for reading and enjoy the slideshow and gallery!

Victoria Dye

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